Esso Coffeehouse

Esso Coffeehouse is a hidden neighborhood roastery on 12th Street near Highland in Phoenix with a vine covered patio and in house roasted beans. The space sits on the lower level of its building tucked behind native foliage and greenery that grows along the side across from the glass panes. The plants provide a natural screen from the sun and shade the outdoor seating area. Tables and chairs are spread comfortably beneath the cover. The whole entrance has a modern yet tucked away feel that makes it easy to walk right past if you do not know it is there.

Inside, the layout is narrow with industrial exposed ducting overhead and warm ambient lighting. A beautiful geometric patterned tiling wraps the service counter and creates a focal point against the rustic wooden tables and concrete floors. It is cozy and unpretentious. The kind of room that feels right for a long quite study session or a slow morning with a friend.

The menu covers espresso drinks, specialty lattes, matcha, cold brew and some food items including pastries and breakfast and lunch options. One popular drink is the Honey Lavender Latte. For hot drinks they offer three sizes. Small and medium come with a double shot of espresso while the large gets two doubles.

One reason I had high hopes walking into Esso was the espresso machine. They use a Victoria Arduino Athena Leva. This is a lever machine where the barista physically pulls down a heavy handle to compress an internal spring. When the lever is pulled down, hot water from the boiler floods the chamber and soaks the coffee puck (this stage is the pre infusion). The barista can hold the lever for a few seconds to make sure the grounds are fully saturated. When the handle is released the spring engages and begins the high pressure extraction (usually around 9 bars). As the spring slowly expands and the lever returns to its resting position the pressure gradually declines. This declining pressure profile is the signature of the Athena Leva. The lower pressure at the end of the pull prevents bitter oils from being extracted as the coffee puck degrades. Most pump driven machines (with the exception of pressure profiling models) apply a constant 9 bars throughout the entire shot. The natural decline of a lever machine is superior because the grounds need less pressure during the second half of the extraction to maintain consistent flow.

Esso roasts their beans in house using a blend of Guatemalan, Brazilian and Tanzanian beans. The roast level runs dark. If you enjoy bold and heavy coffee with a strong roasted character you will feel right at home here. But if you are someone who prefers lighter roasts where the natural origin flavors of the bean come through (fruit, floral, citrus) you will likely find that the dark roast masks those qualities. The Athena Leva is designed to bring out subtle differences in extraction and protect the more delicate flavors in the cup. A lighter roast would let that machine really show what it can do. With a dark roast profile those technical advantages of this marvelous machine are lost.

My wife ordered the April Showers Latte from the spring menu. The flavor was good and it was well mixed from top to bottom. Not too sweet and nicely balanced overall. But after the drink was finished the dark roast made itself known. There was a lingering charcoal aftertaste that sat on the palate. If you are used to lighter coffee (as we are) you will notice it. If you prefer darker roasts this will probably taste exactly like what you are looking for.

Esso Coffeehouse has a lot going for it. The atmosphere is genuinely charming. The patio is nice. The team is warm and the drink menu has personality. I just wish the roast level gave that beautiful lever machine a chance to show off. A lighter roast on those beans would turn this place into something really special. The bones are all there.